Words to Cook By
Besides 300 gluten-free, dairy-free recipes, here
are some of the tastiest bits from legendary author
Barbara Kafka’s new cookbook, The Intolerant Gourmet.
Many of us are intolerant of bad food, ersatz food, and poor
cooking. Despite my problems and my character, I have found
that I can cook excellent food and, on my way to this happy
present, I have learned a great deal about the art, theory, and
practice of using unfamiliar ingredients and making things
that are delicious.
I think the hardest thing about going on a gluten-free diet was
being deprived of sandwiches... What I missed most were very
American things: a street-cart frankfurter, a tuna sandwich.
A compensation has been the exciting discovery of grains that
were unfamiliar to me although ancient in history. I have fallen
in love with pre-rinsed quinoa, teff, and millet.
Balance is critical in ingredients, flavors, colors,
and even temperature.
Though many of the best wheat-free pastas are Italian, many are
made in other countries. Look for the noodles — not pastas — that
are Asian and traditionally made from rice or mung beans.
During World War II, my contribution — unwilling —
to the war effort was taking care of a brood
of chickens... It didn’t seem to make them
any friendlier that I was feeding them
twice a day.
Use seasonings as one would any other
spice in the kitchen. Taste and invent.